Sep 23, 2015 6:16 PM

frankyfw

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Final Picture First

Based off of some plans from DIYpete and Ana-white (gaby kitchen island plans)

Shopping List:

* 4" x 4" - 2 (8')
* 2" x 6" - 1 (8')
* 2" x 4" - 1 (8')
* 3/8" x 5" Lags - 12
* 3/8" Washers - bag
* 2 1/2" Pocket Screws- 24
* 4' x 8' Melamine
* Silicone caulk (black)
* ProFinish 5000 concrete - 2 bags
* 4' x 8' Styrofoam Insulation
* Acrylic concrete sealer
* Trowel
* Mixing tub
* Nitrile Gloves
* 1-5/8" Drywall Screws
* Plastic Drop Cloth

Cut List:

* 4- 28"-- 4" x 4"
* 2- 22"-- 4" x 4"
* 1- 47"-- 2" x 4"
* 1- 47"-- 2" x 6"
* 2- 15"-- 2" x 6"
* 1- 60" x 30"--Melamine
* 2- 64" x 2 1/4" --Melamine
* 2- 34" x 2 1/4"--Melamine

This was just for one, I went back to get more wood and concrete for the second one.

Cutting and notching supports. I definitely should have paid more attention to grain/wood color when I bought these. I wasn't exactly sure how I would finish though, I guess that is something to consider first.

The plans called for pocket screws, but those don't really hold up well. I still used them, but it was because I didn't have enough clamps. I drove the 3/8" Lags through to hold everything tight with the concrete.

Here is where things went awry. I tried drawers at first...Trying to fit 3 drawers perfectly was proving beyond my capabilities and patience. They had to be pretty shallow to fit myself seated underneath and it was a pain. Broke one trying to fit it in and said forget it. Drawers are stupid.

I was using lag bolts sparingly, because I didn't want to go back to the store. I put a tung oil finish on and voila here is my table base. I'm pretty happy with it, just don't pull out the level.

Cutting the Melamine and building the form. No steps of this because it was hard enough to manuever this big sheet around alone in my garage. Attached with 1-5/8" drywall screws.

Caulked and level. I also put some tape over the exposed edges...just because.

After this pic I ended up taking all of it out and trying it again. 1-1/2" thick total slab, with 1/2" foam core. Concrete was too dry and didn't level out exactly. It's really hard to get 1/2" consistency on the bottom of the mold. For the core I just drilled some 3" Diameter holes along it to tie the two halves together and left an inch border. Essentially it creates a box channel with pillars. Should be strong enough for a desk...Also it took EXACTLY 2- 80lb bags, meaning I had nothing left...buy a 3rd bag to have on hand just in case.

You can already see the ghosting. 1/2" thickness probably isn't enough concrete, but I wanted it lighter with the thicker appearance.

I covered and cured it for 7 days, mainly because I had no one to help me get it out of the mold otherwise it might have been 5 days. Popped it out of the mold. Lots of bug holes as the concrete was definitely too dry, but it looks better than I anticipated. Around 160lbs.

Sanded and stained with some acrylic sealer from HD. Yes there is probably better stuff, but I needed this done for work so I just bought it and rolled with it. I tried to fill all the bug holes and after an hour or so I gave up. Some of them worked, but I was trying to use some Quikrete patch mix, that wasn't making it as easy as I thought it would be.

I used the same mold, and tried it again. Using a wetter mix and troweling and vibrating (slamming the table) before I put the foam core in. A lot less ghosting, and almost no bug holes. Since my mold was still good, you only end up using a bit of the sealer, and I had enough foam left to piece together one more core, it was much more cost effective to make 2 rather than just one.

Final with 2 desks. One is standing height for when I want to work standing. Still have plans for some cord management.

that has to be hard on your mouse!

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

I want to do this. I want to, but I won't. +1 for accomplishments.

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Just wait till your wife/girlfriend says: "You know I was thinking "we*" could move this to.." What's this WE shit?

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Drawers are stupid. Awesome job, OP.

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

+1 for blueballs awareness~!

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

It's fucking hideous but +1 for effort, and a favorite for creativity.

11 years ago | Likes 20 Dislikes 0

I love simple, industrial furniture. +1

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Pour jet fuel on it, set it on fire. Post results.

11 years ago | Likes 7 Dislikes 2

Not my style but nice work. Also would recommend against tung oil for high use furniture, use poly/laquer/shellac

11 years ago | Likes 3 Dislikes 0

And for anyone wondering, yes that's about all the volume you get from 160 lbs of concrete, it is very heavy stuff.

11 years ago | Likes 11 Dislikes 0

*dense

11 years ago | Likes 6 Dislikes 0

Yeah yeah, that too

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

I'm a huge fan of concrete desks - you can even embed glass in it for an awesome effect. (polish it up for looks and safety.)

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

OP why concrete? And why foam core?

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 0

Foam core for weight reduction. Concrete for cool stone table. Because glass tops suck.

11 years ago | Likes 5 Dislikes 1

Ya, weight reduction cause 160 ficking pounds is heavy.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

That is furniture that I would never want to move again. Great work OP

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Like how you chose to not have a desk chair

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

As a hobby carpenter myself i have a real question: I have seen a lot of DIY projects and i always wondered why you use screws and not glue.

11 years ago | Likes 3 Dislikes 0

I use both but I have few clamps. Would rather tongue and groove and glue. Oh, and the smear fubars my stain. thats a reason too

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Good clamps are expensive unfortunately. But they are a great invest and they last for decades. I use some which are twice as old as me

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

I use both, but I like screws just because I feel like the object will hold together better. Wood glue is very strong, I just don't trust it

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

(2/2) avoid them because i think it is a result of either bad planning or bad skills. No offense! I also don“t like the look of screwheads.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Oh agreed, if it's a public facing face, I try to use glue or screws from behind. Also, no router/jointer so biscuits not easy for me.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

(1/2) Okay, but i think if you use the glue in a proper way and within a good biscuit there is no need of screws in the most cases. I always

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

"drawers are stupid" - I lol'd

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Borrow a vibrator... They use industrial sized ones to get bubbles out and settle the concrete into formwork. Might be useful here too.

11 years ago | Likes 5 Dislikes 0

He can just use his wife's if he is not married then just go to Spencers lol, all kidding aside great job op

11 years ago | Likes 3 Dislikes 0

Or if you are not willing to pay a shitload of money i can recommend a percussion drill with a blunt driller.

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 0

Hammer drill with a dowel rod. Good idea, thanks.

11 years ago | Likes 3 Dislikes 0

OP isn't there some sort of mix-in you can throw into the cement mix to make it come out very slick and marble-y (?) .Not my area. Love proj

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Structural engineer for a precast company here. Nice job, but you definitely could improve the construction. Vibrating the concrete (1/5)

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

will allow you to remove the bugholes and improve the consolidation of the mix. The concrete you chose is a high early strength mix. (2/5)

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

This mix is great if you're pouring a bridge slab, not the best if you want a smooth surface for a countertop. Try quickrete (3/5)

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

countertop mix. Your 1/2" thickness is a little thin without reinforcement. At that thickness you can probably only put 300 (4/5)

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

pounds of load on the table safely (not enough for computer + person) and it will break suddenly if it fails, I'd use 3/4". (5/5)

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Misread your post, saw that you have 1" thick concrete with 1/2" foam. Should be good to go then.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Damn that shopping list is pretty concrete.

11 years ago | Likes 47 Dislikes 1

Damn you +1

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Good work- this is legit!

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

More trowel, you can get a shear surface without sanding. Use a metal trowel and wet it, and even 8 hours later you can pull up and smooth

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 0

I am a simple man

11 years ago | Likes 17 Dislikes 2

Baby be a simppppppppplleee kind of mann

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Fred Flintstone ....we meet again

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Why would you want to have a desk made of concrete?

11 years ago | Likes 72 Dislikes 0

stability, I guess

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Concrete and 4x4s: for when you like desks, but wish they were way fucking heavier and harder to move.

11 years ago | Likes 12 Dislikes 0

My question as well.....this sounds like a terrible idea.

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Why not.. It's bad ass if you sand and seal it

11 years ago | Likes 7 Dislikes 2

And why would you want the top made of foam core?

11 years ago | Likes 38 Dislikes 2

The top is concrete with a core of foam, not a foamcore top.

11 years ago | Likes 6 Dislikes 0

Weight

11 years ago | Likes 12 Dislikes 0

No offense OP but the the *after* pic looks like a *before* pic to me...

11 years ago | Likes 78 Dislikes 8

Holes are there because of excess air/water in concrete, waterproofing additives and manual labour (e.g. vibrating) would get rid of it.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

For table purposes he can probably smooth it out with maybe a layer of waterproofing coating.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Eh, to be fair, he made a fucking table. I can't make a table, or furniture at all. Plus, work surfaces for a job. +1

11 years ago | Likes 6 Dislikes 1

I was disappointed when I read it was the "after" picture too.

11 years ago | Likes 7 Dislikes 1

OP if you decide to make more of these there is a commercially available cement mix made for doing countertops and sinks.

11 years ago | Likes 21 Dislikes 0

Really? Can you give me a source? Do you have experience making concrete countertops?

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 0

I've done thousands of concrete tops, PM me if you have questions.

11 years ago | Likes 5 Dislikes 0

http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/CountertopMix.asp Looks like Home Depot carries it.

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 0

Thanks

11 years ago | Likes 3 Dislikes 0

. For later

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

I haven't seen this stuff in HD in a long time, and it isn't on their website either.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Sorry for the late reply. Apparently I have been logged out for a few days and never noticed. Anyway, I believe you may have not found it

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

on the website because the searches may be based on the stock of your local store. It does show on my search. I would suggest changing your

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

Did any one else appreciate a DIY not going exactly as planned? Like most of the time they are done by semi professionals

11 years ago | Likes 338 Dislikes 0

I'm building a bed right now. Ana White plan as well. And it is definitely not going as planned, but we're making it work! My dad is a saint

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Its easy to look that way when you measure twice cut once and aren't afraid to go back to the store if you bought the wrong thing.

11 years ago | Likes 28 Dislikes 2

Thanks! Hopefully this shows it's less intimidating then I thought it was looking at other tutorials

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Well I go to IKEA and I still get everything wrong.

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 0

Amen I started just building random things in my garage! I like his approach I don't mind if not perfect when it's just for me!

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

I built a projector screen recently, even though I measured carefully, it still didn't come out quite even. Gorgeous screen though.

11 years ago | Likes 9 Dislikes 0

Can you post some pics? Been thinking about building one for the back deck

11 years ago | Likes 6 Dislikes 0

Sure! I'm out of town for a week, but I'll get some. Just a basic rectangular frame with a whiteboard on it, painted w/flat acrylic.

11 years ago | Likes 4 Dislikes 1

Nice work OP. As a fellow amateur concreteur I'm pleased to see the foam core worked out. How is it to work at? Did you sand/polish at all?

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

Sanded up to 220 but it didn't make much of a difference, if you want to get fancy you'll need a wet sander though. Thanks!

11 years ago | Likes 2 Dislikes 0

If i were to do this, I'd use galv wire mesh reinforcing (or at least add fiber reinforcing), and pour the finish side down onto...

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

...a smooth surface like plexiglass or a super-smoothly sanded piece of lacquered plywood, to make the finish surface extra smooth. Then...

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0

...sand lightly to expose the aggregate. But there's more than one way to skin a cat (is that a saying?) and your final product looks good.

11 years ago | Likes 1 Dislikes 0