Ramen Tonkotsu

Jul 6, 2020 1:05 PM

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Prima parte, este supa de porc.
Am folosit ~1k de picioare de porc, cateva coaste de porc (~500 gr) si niste oase de la un pui la care am uitat sa le fac poza ( gheare, aripi, gat si carcasa).
Le-am spalat bine, le-am acoperit cu apa rece si le-am lasat peste noapte in frigider. Pasul asta e important pt ca sangele iese in apa si supa va fi alba.

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To make the bones broth, I used 1kg pig trotters, a few pork ribs (~500 gr) and a few chicken bones that are not pictured (a carcass, the legs and wings).
I washed them well, covered with cold water and placed them in the fridge overnight. This is important as the blood will be soaked in the water and the broth will be white.

A doua zi am aruncat apa in care au stat oasele, le-am spalat din nou bine, am adaugat apa rece cat sa le acopere si le-am pus pe foc mic.

Cam o ora a durat pana a inceput sa fiarba usor si a inceput sa produca spuma. Am folosit o spumiera si am luat cat am putut din spuma produsa.

Apoi am adaugat legume: 1 morcov, o ceapa alba curatata (ceapa rosie coloreaza supa), o bucata de ghimbir, doua ciuperci mari, 2 cepe verzi).
Am dat focul pe mediu si am lasat sa fiarba, adaugand apa pe masura ce s-a evaporat, in jur de 14 ore.

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The next day I washed again the bones, covered them in fresh cold water and put them on the stove on low heat. In about 1 h they will start to simmer and produce some scum and foam. Remove as much as you can from the scum.

Then I added 1 carrot, 1 white onion, 1 piece of ginger, 2 mushrooms and 2 spring onions. All the veggies are optional, you can skip them but I like them for a bit of extra flavour.
Then I turned the heat on medium and let them boil for 14 hours, by topping with water when it evaporated.

Cam 9-10 ore dureaza pana ce supa e alba si cremoasa. Eu am lasat totul sa fiarba pana seara (vreo 14 ore) pt ca nu planuiam sa termin ramenul in aceeasi zi.
Dupa 14 ore oasele aproape ca se dezintegreaza.
Am strecurat supa si am pus-o in frigider. A doua zi am inlaturat din grasimea de la suprafata si am pastrat-o pentru mai tarziu.

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It takes about 9-10 hours until the broth is white and creamy. I boiled it for 14 hours because I had the time.
After the 14 hours the bones are soft and almost fall apart. Pour the soup through a fine sieve and place it in the fridge until the next day. I skimmed some of the fat from the top and used it later.

Intre timp am pus ouale la marinat.
Am folosit 3 oua, in jur de 120 ml de sos de soya, 40 ml mirin, 40 ml sake, 1 lingurita de zahar (am uitat sa ii fac poza) si un pumn de fulgi de bonito.
Am pus pe foc totul in afara de oua pana a inceput sa fiarba. Am strecurat lichidul si am aruncat fulgii de bonito, apoi am adaugat vreo 100-120 ml de apa.
L-am lasat sa se raceasca complet. Se pot adauga aici tot felul de condimente, altadata am pus o steluta de anason dar mi s-a parut prea puternica aroma.

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In the meantime I made the cured eggs.
I used 3 eggs, ~120 ml soy sauce, 40 ml mirin, 40 ml sake, 1 ts sugar and 1 handful of bonito flakes.
I boiled everything except for the eggs for 1-2 min, I sieved the liquid, I added 120 ml water and let it cool. You can use various aromatics and spices like ginger, garlic, star anise etc.

Nu stiu cat se vede in poza asta, dar ouale au niste gauri mici facute in coaja cu un ac. Nu e neaparat necesar pasul asta, dar cica asta previne ouale de la a se sparge, pentru ca se pun in apa care fierbe deja.

Am facut gaurile in coaja, am pus niste apa la fiert iar cand apa clocotea am adaugat ouale pt 6:20 min. In functie de preferinte, am vazut ca se tin intre 6-7 minute. 6:20-6:30 mi se pare perfect.

Se scot ouale in apa foarte rece, amestecata cu gheata si se lasa la racit, apoi se decojesc si se pun in lichidul cu soya de mai sus. Le-am tinut in frigider, acoperite de lichid cam o zi jumate. In timpul asta galbenusul se mai incheaga.

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Idk if it's visible in this picture but I made some tiny holes on the egg shells. This ensures the eggs won't break when boiling.
I put some water in a pan and when it was boiling I added the eggs and boiled them for 6:20 min. I removed the eggs on an ice bath and removed the shells when they were cold. I placed them in the marinade liquid and cured them for 1 1/2 days in the fridge.

Pentru chashu, am folosit 700 gr de burta de porc pe care am rulat-o si am legat-o cu sfoara. Am pus-o intr-o tigaie si am prajit-o de jur imprejur, pe partea cu soriciul.

Intr-o cratita am acoperit o bucata de kombu cu apa si am pus-o pe foc mic. Nu trebuie sa depaseasca 65-70 de grade, pt ca devine amara.

Am scos foaia de kombu si am adaugat niste sos de soia, sake, mirin, zahar, sare (nu am masurat dar aproximativ cat am adaugat si pt oua). Am turnat totul intr-o tava, am pus carnea rulata si am adaugat ghimbir, ceapa verde, doi catei de usturoi si nistece se vede in poza).

Am pus-o la cuptor vreo 3 ore, la 170 C, apoi am lasat carnea in lichid si am bagat-o in frigider peste noapte. Cand e rece se taie multe mai bine.

Lichidul se poate folosi la marinat oua (eu am pus ouale la marinat inainte sa fac chashu, asa ca nu am facut asta) dar am amestecat putin din lichid la sfarsit, cu supa.

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To make the chashu, I used 700 gr pork belly that I rolled and tied with kitchen string. I fried the roll (the sides with the rind) in a cast iron pan.
I covered 1 piece of kombu with water and put it on low heat. When reaching 65 C I removed the kombu, added some sake, mirin and soy sauce (I didn't measure them but the quantities were similar to what I used for the eggs), some salt and sugar. I placed the chashu in this braising liquid, I added some ginger, spring onion, garlic and chilli oil ( as pictured). I cooked the chashu in the oven, covered in liquid for about 3 hours then let it cool down overnight in the fridge.
You can use the braising liquid from chashu to marinate the eggs, I used a few tbsp along with the tare and the broth at the end.

Asa arata chashu cand am scos-o din cuptor. Ce se vede langa sunt niste felii subtiri de muschi de porc pt ca prietenul meu prefera carnea fara grasime ?

Am mai pus doua bucati de kombu in apa rece, peste noapte in frigider.

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Here is the chashu when ready. On the left there were some thin slices of pork as my bf doesn't like the fatty chashu.

I placed 2 pieces of kombu in the fridge, to soak overnight covered by water, that I used the next day to make the tare.

A doua zi l-am facut pe "tare" (sosul care da gust supei). Am folosit kombu hidratat peste noapte si lichidul lui, o mana de anchovies uscate si doi pumni de fulgi de bonito.

Am pus peste si fulgii intr-o rasnita si i-am facut pulbere. Am pastrat o lingurita din pudra obtinuta.

Am pus kombu si lichidul in care a stat pe foc mic, pana la 65 C, apoi am aruncat kombu si am adaugat pudra din peste.
Am fiert cateva minute apoi am strecurat.

Din grasimea pe care am inlaturat-o de pe supa am pus vreo 2 linguri pe foc si am infuzat-o cu usturoi, ceapa verde, niste fulgi de chilli si lingura de pudra din peste.

Am incalzit supa (e ca o piftie dar se topeste), si am amestecat in fiecare bol cam 2/3 supa si 1/3 tare-le de mai sus. S-ar putea sa mai fie nevoie de sare. Am pus si cateva linguri din lichidul de la chashu si putin din grasimea infuzata.
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To make the tare (the sauce that gives the taste to the ramen) I used the hydrated kombu, a handful of dried anchovies, 2 handfuls of bonito flakes and some infused pork fat (that I previously skimmed from the broth )

I put the anchovies and bonito flakes in a food processor and made them a powder. I saved 1 tbsp for later.

I put the kombu and its water on low heat until it reached 65 C, then I discarded the kombu, added the bonito flakes and anchovies powder. I let it simmer for a couple of minutes then I strained it.

I flavoured the pork lard with garlic, spring onion, some chilli flakes and 1 tbsp of fish powder.

I heated the pork broth and mixed 2 parts broth with 1 part tare. Season it if's not salty enough. I also added a few tb from the chashu braising liquid and a bit of pork lard.

Aici sunt toppingurile (am uitat de oua si taitei). Taitei am folosit.din comert si i-am fiert cum scria pe ambalaj.
Am taiat chashu felii si le-am prajit intr-o tigaie de fonta.
Sus in stanga sunt feliile de porc fara grasime (gatite in acelasi lichid ca si chashu) si ciuperci kikurage taiate fasii.
In dreapta sus condiment shichimi togarashi, foi de nori, ceapa verde.
In dreapta mijloc, ciuperci enoki si shimenji, pe care le-am gatit 1 minut cu putin ulei de susan, sos de soia si mirin.

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These are the toppings. I forgot to take a picture of the eggs and noodles. I used dried noodles and I prepared them as per the package instructions.
I sliced the chashu and fried it in a hot cast iron pan.
Top left are the slices of pork that I cooked in the same braising liquid with the chashu some kikurage mushrooms.
Top right are shichimi togarashi, nori and spring onions. The mushrooms are enoki and shimenji that I cooked for 1 min in a bit of sesame oil, soy sauce and mirin.

Si bolul de ramen montant.

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And the ramen bowl.